Lewis & Clark National Historic Park

Kati Cooke
Feb 14
7 min read

Did you know that Crater Lake isn't the only National Park in Oregon? Most national park geeks know that there are 63 National Parks in the NPS system, but I actually just found out there are another 63 National Historic Parks! Lewis & Clark NHP is located near Astoria, Oregon, less than 2 hours away from Portland, and encompasses 12 different sites across 2 states.

Wooden sign for Fort Clatsop in wooded area, featuring silhouettes of explorers and park emblem. Text: Fort Clatsop, Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. — The classic National Park Service signage makes me so happy. Even though a Historic Park is a little different, I loved the cohesive NPS architecture and overall vibe.

I recently spent a few weekends exploring this area, and I wanted to share what I found. Somehow I didn't know this all existed until very recently and it's been great fun feeling like a tourist so close to my own home.

A Brief History of Lewis & Clark National Historic Park

Lewis & Clark NHP was designated in 2004, but has been on the register of National Historic Places since the 1960s. Lewis and Clark arrived at the site in November 1805 and finished building Fort Clatsop by January, naming it after the local indigenous tribe. The 33-person group lived here from December 1805 to March 1806. The first replica of their fort was built in 1955 but burned down under mysterious circumstances in 2005. The current replica was built in 2006 and is based off of Clark's sketch of the original fort. There are several other historical sites encompassed in this Park, including WWII bunkers, lighthouses, and an indigenous plank-house replica. I'll be focusing on the Fort Clatsop and Cape Disappointment areas, and I'll write more once I've come back and explored the other sites.

Fort Clatsop Area

Visitor Center & Museum

While the NHP expands across 12 different sites in both Oregon and Washington, the visitor center and museum is located by Fort Clatsop. A National Park pass (either a daily fee or an annual America the Beautiful pass) is required to park here and see the museum. There is no parking kiosk, so you have to show the pass to the ranger inside the visitor center. The center is open every day from 9-5 during the winter and 9-6 during the summer (closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, and Christmas day).

The museum is free with your park pass! It is on the smaller side and took me about 15 minutes to look through. There are several historic artifacts from the time of Lewis and Clark, including a replica of a Makah canoe. The museum shows two films in their theater and has an additional television with all the YouTube videos available to view on-demand.

Replica of Fort Clatsop

The most exciting and photogenic part of the site is the 2006 Fort Clatsop replica. The fort is constructed like a log cabin and has several rooms you can walk through. There are bunk beds, fireplaces, tables, and storage rooms. Around the replica are benches, fire pits, and a canoe landing. The rangers frequently give presentations here (in historical costume!) with demonstrations of what life was like in Lewis and Clark's time.

Netul Landing

After exploring the Fort, I took an easy walk to Netul Landing. It was a 2.5 mile round trip along the Lewis & Clark River. I really liked the wooden boardwalks and bridges that crossed the wetlands. I was here on a Saturday and only passed one other person, so it was very peaceful and serene. Netul Landing has a kayak and canoe launch and a picnic area. The river had a very strong current in early February, but I definitely want to come back in the summer to paddleboard here.

Cape Disappointment Area

If you cross the border into Washington State, you can visit Cape Disappointment, which is also a part of the NHP property. I arrived too late to see the Interpretive Center, but I was able to explore Deadman's Cove, two lighthouses, and an abandoned WWII bunker off the Bell's View Trail. It was named Cape Disappointment by British fur trader Captain John Meares who was looking for the mouth of the Columbia River in 1788 and was disappointed not to find it here.

Note that you will need a Discover Pass to park here, and the National Park Pass will not cover it.

Deadman's Cove

This is a very popular photography spot that you've probably seen on Instagram. If you park at the Interpretive Center, you can take Cape Disappointment Trail to the cove, then to the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, and back in about 1.5 miles. This lighthouse was built in 1856 and is the oldest operating lighthouse in the PNW. I'd love to come back for the Interpretive Center, but it's only open 10 am to 5 pm and I missed it the first time.

North Head Lighthouse

Drive just a few miles north of the Interpretive Center for parking (just take North Head Road and turn off on N Head Lighthouse Road). Right off the parking lot is a historic building that is now used as a privately owned bed and breakfast. Past the BnB is the North Head Lighthouse. You can even tour this lighthouse during summertime! It was built in 1897 after mariners complained that the one lighthouse wasn't enough for the treacherous Columbia headwaters. At only two miles apart, these are now the closest two lighthouses on the entire west coast.

This lighthouse was featured in an episode of Ghost Adventures in 2018 - apparently some ghosts were left behind from the 2,000 ships that have sunk here since 1792.

Bell's View Trail and WWII Bunker

This is a short 0.5 mile walk to an abandoned WWII bunker that you can explore. It was my favorite part of the entire trip, and what encouraged me to make the drive out here. There's also an old water tower and an ocean overlook.

The bunker is named the Battery Harvey Allen, and was used from 1906 to after WWII. I've seen bunkers at other coastal parks, but this is the only one I've found that is totally open to explorers. There are some spooky vibes for sure, but it is clearly well traveled and safe.

Other Sites in the National Historic Park

I've only spent two days exploring this area, and there is so much more to see across both states. Other than Fort Clatsop, Cape Disappointment, and Netul Landing, here are some other sites that I'd love to stop at next time:

Ecola State Park: I've actually been here several times without realizing it is a part of the NHP. It's very close to Cannon Beach and has hiking trails, whale watching sites, and beach access at either Crescent Beach or Indian Beach. Oregon State Parks Pass required for parking.
Middle Village Station Camp: This is a small roadside park commemorating the site of an extensive Chinook village. There is a historic church, canoe replicas, and an interpretive trail with exhibits on the site's history.
Fort Stevens State Park: This site is far too extensive to just briefly mention! I'll come back here and write about it, but for now, just know there is a shipwreck on the beach, a visitor center, a museum, a golf course, yurts and a campground, and forts and batteries to explore.

Driving To and From Portland

You could easily spend an entire weekend exploring this area. It's always bittersweet having to drive home after a day or a weekend of fun, so I like to extend my trips by stopping at as many places as I can on the way back. Here are a few of my favorites:

Bucket Bites Pasties: full disclosure, I've never actually eaten here. However, as a new Yooper, I have to mention the one place in Oregon (besides my kitchen) that serves pasties. Pasties are savory hand pies that are extremely popular in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. I own a vacation home out there and eat my body weight in pasties whenever I visit. This cute little food truck in Astoria is open from only 11:30 am to 4:30 pm Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, so I've never had a chance to go. Try it out and let me know what you think!
Astoria Column: You can visit the Astoria Column from 5 am to 10 pm every day. Parking is $5 per vehicle but it is free to climb the column. It is 125-feet high and takes 164 steps to reach the top.
Gearhart: you can drive on the beach here! Just don't get stuck in the tides like I did once. I also love a McMenamins hotel to explore. The building with the secret room is unfortunately only open to guests, so I didn't get to find it, but the other building is very whimsical and fun to wander through. I saw some elk in the nearby golf course.
Cannon Beach: this might be a better stop on the way to Astoria, so you can stop at the Insomnia Coffee in downtown. They have great pastries, coffee, and cozy vibes. Sleepy Monk is another good choice for coffee.
Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area: this will add some time to your trip, but if you'd like to see some elk, it's worth the drive. November through April is the best time to see elk, but it is always open. To go on an elk feeding tour (only available December through February), you will have to call ahead and make a reservation.

My Ideal Itinerary

For those planning a day trip to Lewis & Clark NHS, this is my recommendation for how to maximize your time and see all the sights:

Leave Portland early to have time for everything!
Stop at the Insomnia Coffee in Cannon Beach for a coffee and a pastry
Drive 35 minutes north to Fort Clatsop visitor's center and see the museum and the replica of the Fort
Walk the 2.5 mile round trip trail to Netul Landing and back
Drive 40 minutes north to Cape Disappointment State Park (will require a Discover Pass but they have a payment kiosk)
Hike to Deadman's Cove and the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse
Drive a few minutes north and take a short walk to the North Head Lighthouse and the Bell's View bunker
Drive back to Astoria, Oregon for lunch at Bucket Bites Pasties
Climb the Astoria Column after lunch
Drive 20 minutes south to Gearhart and go for a drive on the beach if tide is low
Get a drink or some Cajun tots at the McMenamins Gearhart hotel and explore
Drive about an hour to Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area - at this point it will be dusk and you are more likely to see the elk herd!
Head home to Portland