Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge
If you've ever made the pilgrimage between Seattle and Portland, and wondered what on earth could possibly make that hellish stretch of I-5 a little more bearable... do I have the place for you!
After driving by the sign for the Nisqually Wildlife Refuge countless times, I finally stopped on the way home from a wedding in Seattle in early September. I wasn't expecting much (especially since it's right off the freeway), but I was blown away!
Fast Facts on the Nisqually Wildlife Refuge
The Refuge is operated by the US Fish and Wildlife Service, and is located near Olympia, Washington, just off I-5.
Google Maps pin here
An America the Beautiful (National Parks) pass is required for parking, or you can pay the $3 day pass (cash or check only).
No dogs allowed (or bikes... or jogging... sad, but typical for national wildlife refuges)
The refuge grounds are open daily from sunrise to sunset, and the visitor center is open Wednesday through Sunday from 9-4.
Restrooms and drinking water are available at the visitor center, and there are port-a-potties at a trail junction.
There are about 4-5 miles of trails and boardwalk to explore.
US Fish & Wildlife Service web page for the refuge here
Washington Trails Association page with trail info here
Map of refuge trails here
Who is Billy Frank Jr?
The refuge is named after the Nisqually River, and Billy Frank Jr. Billy was born in 1931 on the banks of the Nisqually River. He was a member of the Nisqually tribe and was taught to fish by his father and grandfather.
He was first arrested at the age of 14 for fishing on the Nisqually, and would be arrested over 50 times throughout his life, just for fishing.
In protest of laws that prevented indigenous people from fishing their native lands in Washington state, Billy led "fish-ins." Eventually, a federal judge in 1974 sided with Billy and the protesters, and granted the indigenous peoples of Washington State the right to half of the salmon in western Washington. Billy then worked in conservation of natural resources for the remaining decades of his life.
The Twin Barns Loop Boardwalk Trail
The refuge has an incredibly varied selection of terrain to explore! The trails start at the visitor center. There is a one mile boardwalk loop, called the Twin Barns Loop, through wetlands and forests. There are plenty of spots and benches to sit and watch the marshes. You'll definitely want to take your binoculars here.
Halfway through the Twin Barns trail, you will actually see the Twin Barns! There are two port-a-potties here and several picnic tables. The barns are the original structures, built in 1932 after a fire destroyed the prior buildings here. You can walk up to the barns and peek into the windows, unfortunately most are covered with blinds. I saw a few boats in there, otherwise nothing of interest was visible.
I did find this article that explains what is stored in these barns - frozen bird specimens!!! I would love to see that in person, and one day I might, as the birds are awaiting taxidermy so they can be displayed in the visitor center.
After you see the barns, take the Nisqually Estuary Trail to the refuge's grand attraction: a one-mile boardwalk over salt flats and a tidal river. The connector trail is just a half-mile, flat gravel road that connects the two boardwalks. Overall, the refuge is very accessible and flat - perfect for a diverse range of abilities.
The Nisqually Estuary Boardwalk Trail
This is the crown jewel of the refuge: a mile-long wooden boardwalk extending over mudflats, a salt marsh, and a tidal river. There are several features along the way, including a bird blind, an observation tower, benches, and informational signage.
The end of the boardwalk has several scopes to look through in case you forgot your binoculars. We saw several bald eagles as we walked the boardwalk. We visited during low tide, so the sand was visible under most of the boardwalk. We saw a few crabs scuttling about and a few birds. I've heard that seals and sea otters can also be seen here, probably during high tide!
The estuary boardwalk winding over tidal flats. Watching bald eagles from the viewing platform at the end of the boardwalk Walking back to the mainland after exploring the boardwalk
The Visitor Center
My favorite part of federally managed natural areas tends to be the visitor center. I love to learn about the area I'm exploring, and National Parks, National Forests, and National Wildlife Refuges usually have charming and nostalgic visitor centers. The center at the Nisqually Refuge has a small museum exhibit, helpful rangers, a small store, and an exhibit of duck paintings by art students. it is open Wednesday through Sunday, 9 am to 4 pm.
The best part is the beautiful viewing platform of the wetland behind the building (available for use even when the center is closed). I could spend hours sitting here with a book, enjoying the view and the nutrias and waterfowl swimming by.
My Favorite One-Star Review
I like to end my trip reports with a Google Review that made me laugh. There were some doozies for the Nisqually Refuge, including someone who sincerely blamed this refuge for the Japanese tsunami. However, I chose this review from "Cat," who claims to get paid to travel:
Could be great but can't enjoy it with all the shrieking and screaming kids scaring off any wildlife that dare come close. Saw some ducks, that's all. Everything else left, including the bugs. Glad it was ONLY $3, I'd want my money back if I'd paid more. I really genuinely want to know why families think that this is a great place to take small toddlers, there's nothing here for them...? It's not just a normal park, it's a wildlife reserve, just take them to the local park where they'll do the same thing they're doing here and where there's expectations of it being loud and disruptive. Toddlers screaming, whining, and running around is the closest thing to wildlife I got to experience... as for adults... Y'all are bringing in these big fancy expensive cameras, but you're talking so loud that you're also scaring everything away. If you actually want to photograph something, shut up. Overall, disappointing. Not for the refuge itself, but the poor behavior that made it loud and untenable for the wildlife that supposedly we're protecting.
I for one, am thankful that parents are taking small toddlers to nature preserves! I can't think of a better way to instill a love and respect for nature than to share these experiences with kids when they're still little. Sorry Cat, I hope the next place you're paid to visit is child-free (although based off of her 400+ other one star reviews, I doubt even that would satisfy her).
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